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Serving the Communities of Cathlamet, Skamokawa, Grays River, Rosburg, Altoona and Naselle Washington

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Articles about Wahkiakum County...   

Discover the Northwest: Picture-perfect Cathlamet, Washington

by Harold Harbaugh published in The Columbian, May 2006

If you fondly remember childhood visits to Grandma's picture-perfect small town and are feeling nostalgic, head for Cathlamet, Washington. But don't expect Grandma to be sitting in her rocker knitting. She's too busy planning her future.

The best way to approach Cathlamet and the past is to drive to Westport, Oregon, and take the Wahkiakum County Ferry to Puget Island. The nine car ferry, the last one on the Lower Columbia River, is just a ten minute ride, but it takes you back several years. Puget and its well-named neighbor Little Island have 27 miles of roads that are excellent for pleasure driving and biking. "Puget Island is one of the top 10 cycling places in the Pacific Northwest," says Jennifer Johnson, Executive Director of the local Chamber of Commerce. Paddle centers provide kayak and canoe access to the Columbia River.

Puget Island, population about 1,000, has a stock of old farmhouses, bed and breakfast retreats, Scandinavian churches, and a recently restored Norse Hall. Wahkiakum was once a magnet for Northern European immigrants, especially Finns. The Island's small grocery store and single gas station seem stuck in time, but there is growing interest in living here. The station is run by a young couple who just moved in.

Cathlamet, the County Seat, is a riverside town rising to bluffs with some steep streets and a stock of historic buildings. It is entered via highly scenic Highway 4 or the Julia Butler Hansen Bridge from Little Island. Cathlamet is a browser's delight and small town home seeker's dream. Jennifer, who manages the brand new downtown Visitors' Center says, "Ninety percent of the people who walk in here who aren't tourists are looking for real estate or property." She keeps listings and maps handy to pass along.

Wahkiakum County is somewhat unusual. A timber trust controls 80% of the land and wetlands consume another 10%, so only a small part is habitable. "Baby Boomers are looking at this area because they know it's always going to feel rural" says Jennifer. The County has only 4,000 residents, and 536 of them live in winsome Cathlamet.

Jennifer promotes local artists. Art abounds on her office's walls, and she has tracked down and put up posters of the three movies that have been shot here -- Men of Honor, Come See the Paradise, and Snow Falling on Cedars. "The clinic is going to hang local artists' pictures all over with information so if someone wants to purchase or find out more about the artist they can contact the Chamber," she says with enthusiasm.

Karen Bertroch, local historian and Director of the Wahkiakum Community Foundation, says, "Antiques, historic preservation, and art are forces in Cathlamet."

This will become obvious the minute you step into Ruth Doumit's Downtown Gallery and Coffee House, a great place to have lunch and see local art, including Ruth's own. She is a stained glass and mosaic tile designer who, when not busy with diners, takes people upstairs to her studio. "I do commissioned art work," she says with obvious yet unassuming pride. "This business is mine, my daughter works in it, also my granddaughter." Ruth is matter-of-fact about the five generations of her family currently working in the venerable Doumit Building on Main Street. When asked about the art all around her Coffee House, she mentions that she features only locals. "We have an awful lot of artists, glassblowers, photographers, painters? The work that I do."

If you express interest, Ruth will direct you to Kyle Gribskov's glassblowing works across the street and down a newly bricked, sloping sidewalk. An internationally renowned artist, Kyle can often be found in his studio supervising the work of young glassblowers, whose achievements he displays along with his own.

Other attractions in town include the Historical Society Museum and the popular Elochoman Slough Marina, which is exactly 25 miles from both Longview and Astoria. It offers year round, long-term and overnight moorage, and it's especially busy in summer when Cathlamet hosts a dizzying number of special events. Upcoming are a bluegrass festival, a regatta, a quilt show, and a wooden boat festival.

There are many protected historic buildings in and near Cathlamet, like the 1895 Pioneer Church and the bright yellow dwelling next door, now Tom Doumit's law office. The 1905 Grays River Covered Bridge is a fifteen minute drive west of town. "It's the last one left in its original form and condition," says Jennifer Johnson.

You can actually stay in one of the town's most storied structures, the Bradley House. Built in 1907 by a lumber baron, it's now a reasonably priced Inn, which also serves high tea and wonderful lunches daily. To step inside is to travel back 100 years, and the Bradley's four guest rooms are beautifully decorated and cozy.

The nearby Julia Butler Hansen National Wildlife Refuge protects a rare species, the Columbian white-tailed deer. Once thought to be extinct, 300 now live in the Refuge. Also frequently seen are eagles, painted turtles, herons, swans, otters, and Roosevelt elk. You can walk, cycle, drive, jog, or canoe through it. Many prefer the last option because of the Refuge's many gentle sloughs.

That so many landmarks carry the name Julia Butler Hansen is no coincidence. Her 1860 home is not only the County's oldest structure, it is Cathlamet's main attraction. Lovingly restored by local interests, it has only been opened to the public since June, 2005. Pictures of Kennedy's and Johnson's decorate Julia's office, which is just as she left it and a highlight of the tour.

Julia Butler Hansen, 1907-1988, was a woman of extreme achievement who is curiously unheralded today. During a 43 year political career at the local, state, and national level, she became the number one expert on highways in the United States. Her pre-school brother Richard died in an automobile accident, and this made Julia passionate about highway safety. Between 1960 and 1974, she served as a Representative in the National Congress and chaired a subcommittee of the House Appropriations Committee, the first woman to do so. She won 21 elections and never lost. According to Karen Bertroch, Julia's motto was, "Can you do the work?"

Julia also found time to write novels. Copies of Singing Paddles, published in 1935, are for sale in the Center. Julia's son David scours Portland for antiques to sell in the Center's kitchen to help pay off a mortgage made necessary by extensive repairs. The Center can also help visitors purchase museum quality prints of Maude's Kimball Butler's paintings.

A very accomplished watercolorist, Maude, Julia's mother, was a young widow, an educator, superintendent of schools, and undoubtedly an inspiration to her daughter. About 80 of Maude's 215 known paintings are on display in the home, which sheltered five generations of the family. "She painted a visual history of this area before photography," says Karen, who much admires Maude.

By the time you admire the Hansen's formal garden, you'll probably be ready for Grandma's rocking chair, but you still must admire the historic County Courthouse, delight in some Columbia River views, and explore Cathlamet's new bookstore and antique shops. It's a good thing the final ferry doesn't leave until 10 p.m.

Cathlamet has what you’re looking for!

Freshwater News, Jan. 2006

Whether that “something" is a good meal, a unique gift, a lesson in history or a great adventure, Cathlamet has got you covered. You’ll instantly recognize that Cathlamet is a boater’s town. Few places in America were not only founded from the water, but water remained the sole transport for nearly 100 years. While Cathlamet now has a road to town, the river still defines this place. Sailors, fisherman, canoes and kayaks, yachts and mariners of all sorts have been coming to Cathlamet for years to enjoy the unique experience we offer.

Located between Longview and Astoria, Cathlamet has become the hub for many activities. Fishing, Boating, Hunting, Camping, sightseeing, birding and shopping to name a few.

As you slide by town on the North side of the Columbia, you may notice some differences here. Newly paved streets, renovated buildings and new businesses await you. If you’ve been to Cathlamet, you know the town is filed with historical charm, wonderful eateries and unique shops and all within walking distance of our upgraded marina. If this is your fist time, you’ll notice what an easy place Cathlamet is to dock your boat and be downtown within a few strides. Tie up at the “Full Service” Elochoman Marina and RV Park and start your discovery of this intriguing little town.

Not only will you see historic buildings but you can visit and tour them! Just at the top of Butler Street you will find the home of Julia Butler Hansen – the oldest house in the County.  You can tour this past home of Congresswoman Julia Butler Hansen. You will discover that the house is just like she left it. You will feel like you have stepped into the past, while you are there make sure you check out the painting of Maude Butler, Julia’s mom.  She is known as the Grandma Mosses of the Columbia. Her historical art can be seen all over town as it tells the history of beautiful Wahkiakum County. There is also a new gift shop at the home, “Julia’s Treasures”.

Across the street is the Historic Bradley House, which now houses a beautiful tearoom (with full lunch), gift shop and Inn. As you wander down Main Street you will discover many galleries, unique gift stores and restaurants. Whether you are craving a fresh salad, cup of soup, burger and fries or chow mien, Cathlamet can appease your hunger. The shopping here is a treat, with specialty shops, antiques, beautiful window displays, friendly service and one-of-a-kind items. Visit the Made in Wahkiakum Store where local artists and craftsman sell their wares.

At the end of Main Street you will see the trademark of Cathlamet, the famous Pioneer Church, which has been restored and turned into a place for art, shows, musicals, and weddings. Don’t miss the chance to have your picture taken with this landmark in the background! 

As you enter Broadway you can stop in our newest restored building, the Scarborough building, home of the Captain Scarborough.   This is the location of the new visitor’s information center. Browse brochures, maps and information on Wahkiakum County. Shopping, dining, lodging and recreational guides will help you navigate this growing community. Cathlamet's newest real estate company and book store are right next door! Downstairs is Kyle Gribskov Glass shop, the renowned artist allows tourists to watch him create sculptures in his studio.

On the way to the City Dock, you’ll pass additional stores and a tavern that was used in the film “Men of Honor” with Cuba Gooding Junior and Robert De Niro.  Once you are on the dock you can watch working Tugboats, and admire the mighty Columbia River views.

After you have explored town make sure as you head back to the Marina check out the Wahkiakum Historical Museum.  Here you will find our history and photographs showing how the local fishermen used mules to drag nets in the river to fish.

Now that you have covered Cathlamet, it is the time to venture out and explore the rest of the sites our wonderful county has in store for you.

Wahkiakum County Historical Society Museum - River Street Museum

Wahkiakum County is the only county in Washington without a stoplight.  This tiny county has a large array of recreational opportunities for its visitors.  Hunting, fishing, camping, river activities, bird watching, hike & bike trails and the most beautiful Scenic drive in the state, to name a few.

Lewis & Clark Wahkiakum County has one of the highest concentrations of Lewis and Clark Heritage Sites in Washington. Visitors may explore and experience the Lewis and Clarke adventure at eight different locations (all marked on map).

Puget Island Just South of Cathlamet this island sits in the middle of the mighty Columbia River, and is home to many of the local Commercial fishermen.  It is sometimes called Little Norway. Take a drive on the outer loop to see wild life and many views of the river and sloughs. If you are interested in bicycling, Puget Island has many roads crisscrossing dikes and sloughs. Visit Buffington Park and take a ride on the famous Wahkiakum Ferry to Oregon, the last passenger ferry on the Lower Columbia. 

Julia Butler Hansen Wildlife Refuge Just west of Cathlamet drive, walk or just watch the eagles, heron, swans, otters, elk and endangered Columbia River Whitetail Deer in their own 5,600-acre refuge. Kayak the many sloughs throughout the Refuge.

Skamokawa  where visitors experience local history at the Redmen Hall River Life Interpretive Center, rent Kayaks and canoes at Skamokawa Center. Stop in Vista Park and photograph the large driftwood, camp and watch the large ships go by on the Columbia River.

Grays River is home to the oldest covered bridge over a public road in Washington. At 100 years old in 2005, the Grays River Covered Bridge is just a mile off the highway and is one of most popular photo spots in the county. There are terrific eateries in Skamokawa as well, and a cozy river front tavern.

Deep River is on the west edge of the county, stop and make sure you see the Deep River Pioneer Church, perfectly restored.  It has never had electricity however it is still used all summer. If you visit on Sunday afternoons you will be treated with music and a free service. A picture of this church is a must for your photo album.

1:30-3:00

12:45-2:15

3:00-5:30

Learn to Swim Lessons 5:30-6:00

2:45-4:15